South Asia 2025

Of the Maldives' 1,192 islands, just 200 or so are inhabited by local people. These 'local islands' have, until recently, remained off the tourist radar, with isolated community life centred around fishing and Sunni Islam.  So when I booked an island-hop fortnight around the Alif Alif atoll, I was super excited. I would be far from the honeymoon stilt houses (which I'd actually LOVE to go to one day, just need to win the lottery) and in the thick of Maldivian living.  However, this hasn't quite been the case. The islands are building sites. It appears that, in just the last year, the government has gone hell-bent on aggressive development - perhaps realising climate change will wipe the islands out anyway, so may as well make a quick buck? So one moment you're snorkelling in a real-life aquarium (the sea is, of course, out of this world) or walking through mangroves, and next you're navigating a war zone of rubble and pile drivers. They're even building ...

Another day, another smiley tuktuk driver 😁😁 On the way to the historic Dutch fort of Galle, we stopped for the obligatory roadside 'short-eats' (pastries that the Sri Lankans love - usually savoury) and at postcard-perfect beaches - some buzzing with brunching backpackers or resort sunbathers, others empty but for the odd lone fisherman.  Gathering sand for cement at nearby building site - backbreaking work Mirissa beach  More amazing bright boats with their catch Some kind of giant bee Impressing the laydeez Drying fish The famous stilt fishermen. Each family has its own perch that's passed down through the sons. It's sun-blistering work so these guys are dark-skinned. Galle  Like other UNESCO cities I've visited, Galle has that trademark stamp of immaculate heritage - polished cobbles, boutique hotels and quaint shops -  three things SL definitely doesn't do as standard. Wonderful, and easy to spend time in (SO nice to have fresh granary bread, salad and ge...